@LMR (the ranch blog)
Don't tell anyone but we are opening our tasting room today.
We are very excited about opening the Long Meadow Ranch Winery tasting room in the historic Logan-Ives House, the restored 1874 Gothic Revival farmhouse at 738 Main Street in St. Helena.
If everything goes according to plan, we'll quietly open the doors to the public at 11 AM today.
We'll be offering tastes of our five wines and two olive oils and a short tour of the property. In a few weeks, we'll be offering small plate food pairings from the kitchen.
But, in the meantime, we'll share our family's hospitality and tell our story. I might even play the 1904 upright piano.
The progress at our project site, which we call "Long Meadow Ranch Winery & Farmstead," is now very visible and friends tell us how great they feel when on the grounds.
The historic house has been restored, the landscaping is largely in place, vegetable gardens are partially planted, and the organic nursery has been remodeled. The solar project is producing "juice" and we have moved into our administrative offices upstairs in the farmhouse.
The next step will be opening of Farmstead restaurant early in the new year. But, more about that in another post.
Don't tell anyone, but we would love to have you come by.
We're open until 6 PM.
Posted by Ted Hall
This past week we finished milling our olives here at Long Meadow Ranch.
As Ted mentioned in an earlier blog posting, 2009 has been a skimpy olive harvest. Not to worry, though, as we are making a decent amount of oil. The olive oils thus far have been very rich with a powerful pungency (spicey) character, showing that we will have an excellent level of quality for 2009.
The olive harvest data have shown that all of our oil yields are down. This happens to be the case with all the olive mills in California. Essentially, what's happening is that the oil and water molecules are not breaking apart during the malaxation stage (paste warming and mixing). Therefore, when the olive paste passes through the decanter centrifuge, the separation of liquids (oil and water) from solids is difficult. This problem of extraction is most likely attributed to a high level of moisture in the olives, caused by rain just prior to harvest.
Although we are facing extraordinary challenges this harvest in terms of both quantity and yield, we remain resilient and will be able to release an excellent 2009 olive oil. Please watch for it when we release it!
Posted by Jason Moulton
The secret is out. Until today we were sworn to secrecy - and we still can't disclose the details.
Watch "Top Chef: Season Finale, Part I" tonight on Bravo TV at 10 PM (9 PM Central). Check your local listings for time and cable channel.
Top Chef brought its finale to the Napa Valley and made LMR Rutherford Gardens a featured location. Finalists Jennifer Carroll, Kevin Gillespie, Michael Voltaggio, and Bryan Voltaggio were given a tough challenge, but we can't tell you what it was.
To learn more you'll have to watch the show tonight.
I'll tell more of the story tomorrow.
We started harvesting olives at sunrise on Monday morning, but we are likely to have the smallest harvest on record.
Thanksgiving Day is the calendar marker for our olive harvest each year. Sometimes we start during the short week prior to the holiday and sometimes right after. So, the harvest is right on time this year.
But, our challenge - and for everyone else in Northern California - is that we have a very small crop. The weather at bloom (in late May) could not have been worse for setting the crop.
Usually we worry about enough moisture content in the soil to help keep the fragile blossoms hydrated. This year we had about two inches of rain on May 15th and we thought we were going to have wonderful conditions. We even skipped our usual pre-bloom irrigation.
But, of course, this is farming. Just as the blossoms opened we had an extraordinary heat spell. Temperatures reached the high 90s (in May!) for more than two days. Then, as often happens when we have an early heat spell caused by a high pressure system to the Northeast, we had very high winds. The so-called "perfect storm" hit us hard: high heat, low humidity, and very strong sustained winds (30-50 mph). The blossoms were gone - except in a few protected locations.
No blossoms; no fruit. There is almost no fruit in the entire region.
We'll see how the harvest volumes go for the rest of the week. However, yesterday afternoon Jason Moulton (our olive oil maker) and I were very pleased with the first oil off the press: fresh, clean, and very agreeably pungent!
So, maybe the good news will be in this vintage's quality. Let's hope so.
More at the end of the week.
We have bittersweet feelings today. The man who destroyed our entire wine inventory in 2005 is going to stay in jail.
Mark Anderson pleaded guilty on Monday afternoon in federal court in Sacramento to 18 counts ranging from arson to wire fraud to income tax evasion. After more than four years of our anxious waiting, he admitted to all of the alleged crimes. In a plea bargain, he agreed to exchange a guilty plea for a sentence of about 15 years in jail instead of the possibility of life in prison following a trial.
On October 13, 2005, Anderson changed our lives forever. He set a warehouse fire to cover up a Ponzi scheme in which he was stealing wines from clients who had entrusted their collections to him for safekeeping. He lived a fancy lifestyle in tony Sausalito using the proceeds of wines stolen from collections belonging to his clients.
He has now admitted that he torched the Wine Central Warehouse where we and 90+ other wineries had recently moved our bottled wine inventories. (We thought the former Navy submarine torpedo repair facility represented the securest possible location to store our wine prior to shipment to our distributors.)
The total losses are estimated to be between $250 and $450 million. Luckily, no one died in the fire, but this event forever changed the lives of many people in the Napa Valley wine industry, including our own.
We lost our entire wine library, from our first vintage in 1994 through 2002, and every bottle of wine we held in inventory (with the exception of a few large format bottles). Only wines aging in barrel in our cave were left.
We lost millions of dollars (even with an insurance settlement) from our small family business.
We also were left without any product to sell for many months (the 2001 and 2002 vintages of LMR Cabernet Sauvignon were totally lost). At that riveting moment, we had 19 employees and had lost our principal source of revenue, our wines. (While we had some revenue from beef and olive oil sales, we had not yet fully developed these components of our business.)
Everyone was stunned – including me. Despite a long, successful professional career, I feared that we would be overwhelmed financially.
In the face of adversity, my father used to say: “When you have lemons, make lemonade.” So, we did.
Looking for ways to keep our identity in the marketplace, we introduced two new products. We used nine tons of Cabernet Sauvignon pomace remaining in the last fermentation tank of the vintage to make grappa - with the gracious help of the folks at St. George Spirits in Alameda.
Next, we took advantage of four small experimental lots of Sauvignon Blanc wine that we had in the winery. We blended these lots, bottled the resulting cuvee, and then released our first commercial white wine - even though it was only about 500 cases.
These steps helped us sustain a dialogue with some of our most important customers. Nevertheless, we were not able to return to the market until the early release of our 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - more than a year after the fire.
As a result, we lost many placements with restaurants and retailers that we had spent more than 7 years developing. Buyers come and go and our identity was often lost in the transition: no wine, no visits, no listings on wine lists.
Thankfully, today, we are on the verge of recovering our momentum. “Lemonade is flowing,” as my father would say.
We took advantage of the hiatus to trim our distributor network to the focus on the most attractive markets and on distributors with whom we had truly productive relationships. We fired more than 10 distributors - and we are better off as a result.
In addition, we acquired (with the help of family and friends investors) the 42-acre San Mateo Vineyard and now have a rapidly growing Sauvignon Blanc wine offering. At the same time, we built meaningful grass-fed beef and olive oil businesses and successfully introduced our first reserve wine, 2005 E.J. Church Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
We also repositioned our wines to more attractive prices, which has helped us significantly in the current economic climate. (For example, we reduced our Cabernet Sauvignon bottle price from $55 to $39 to aid the reintroduction of our brand).
Most significantly, we have created the new destination location in St. Helena, Long Meadow Ranch Winery & Farmstead, which will open soon. Ironically, we probably would not have taken on this major challenge had it not been for the fire.
Nevertheless, we plan to testify at Anderson’s sentencing hearing. His actions destroyed our winemaking history, severely impaired us financially, and put at risk the livelihood of nearly two-dozen employees who had given significant portions of their lives to create our wines.
For others in the industry, sadly, the negative impact was even greater. Many will not recover.
Bernie Madoff has made international headlines because of the far-reaching impact of his Ponzi scheme. Anderson’s version has had equally devastating impact on our Napa Valley community. These men have stolen the fruits of the labor of countless workers.
Sadly, the wines - which contain the prideful efforts of so many - can never be recovered.
We will be sure that the judge understands.
The Full Circle Farming episode of Emeril Green, which features Laddie, Chris, and me with celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, will air again this weekend on the Planet Green Network. The show times are Saturday at 6-6:30 PM EASTERN Time and Sunday at 2-2:30 AM and 10-10:30 AM EASTERN Time. Click here for a channel finder.
We were thrilled with the debut airing of the show on Monday night. We had a viewing party with our staff in the Bunk House at the ranch. We were very pleased with the way the show presented our story - especially given the complexity of what we do. And, the commentary was almost entirely accurate. We could not have asked for a more complete telling of our story if we have tried to do so ourselves.
Sheamus made pulled pork sandwiches and chili (in a kind of faux Frito pie) and we toasted Emeril and the entire production team with the wines of Long Meadow Ranch.
Snippets of the show (showing single topics and recipes) are already available on the Planet Green website and the entire episode will be available soon.
Posted by Ted Hall
We completed our Highland cattle roundup yesterday near Ferndale.
We gathered our herd of 60+ Highland mother cows for our annual fall roundup at the Morrison Ranch along the picturesque Bear River in remote Humboldt County.
We have leased the Morrison Ranch from Peggy Morrison Fox for the past seven years, which has provided ideal conditions for our Highland herd. From the top of the property at nearly 1500 feet elevation, one can gaze out across lush coastal grasslands to the Pacific Ocean below. "Tough" duty if you are a cow. . .
The roundup scene could have been a Hollywood movie. The cattle were gathered on horseback from across the 2000-acre ranch, which has been in the Morrison family since the 1850s (now owned by sisters Kay and Peggy).
Cattle dogs, beautiful working Quarter Horses and Appaloosas, and wranglers wearing chaps were all part of the scene. We brought the herd down from the hills to corrals and barns that were first constructed in 1854.
Our workday team included our longstanding part-time wrangler, Adam Tait, and LMR horse trainer/stable manager, Sarah Bertoli, plus four local friends of Peggy Morrison.
We gathered all of the cows and their calves and "worked" them. The mother cows were given their vaccinations, boluses (two big pills containing selenium and copper), and a treatment for parasites. The calves received a similar regimen.
We were very pleased with the health status of the herd. Ninety-six percent of the cows were pregnant (a very impressive result for our three bulls) and all but one was in perfect health. The calves were vigorous, bright-eyed, and fleshy.
We separated the calves from their mothers ("weaning"). The calves were kept together in the barn for the first two nights (there is comfort in numbers after losing mom) and then were put out onto a nearby pasture along the river where they could be watched and fed supplemental hay.
Sadly, because of a change in direction by the two Morrison sisters, we are leaving the ranch this fall. Our beautiful herd of Highland cows was moved south yesterday by truck to our property in Tomales. The Tomales location will now become our primary location for our cow-calf operation.
We'll continue to send our calves north from Tomales to Ferndale each spring as part of our overall integrated production system. There we will finish our steers and beef heifers using an intensive rotational grazing system followed by a short low-stress trip to the abattoir at Redwood Meats. More about this later. . .
In the meantime, we are entering winter feeling confident about the health status of our herd and already looking forward to calving season in April.
Posted by Ted Hall
Goulash with Sweet Dumpling Squash
I couldn’t resist writing a “ghoul”ash recipe this Halloween. Perfect to prepare in advance and serve to a hungry family before, and after, the festivities. This sweet-sour combination is tough to beat on a chilly autumn night.
4 lbs LMR Grass-fed Beef Stew Meat
2 sweet dumpling squash, peeled and cut ½”x ½”
2 medium yellow onions
¼ cup flour
⅓ cup Napa Valley Select Extra Virgin Olive Oil
¼ cup tomato paste
3 cups chicken stock
1 tbsp paprika
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp caraway seeds
2 tbsp chopped garlic
3 tbsp Napa Valley Select Red Wine Vinegar
¼ tsp zest of lemon
¼ tsp zest of orange
Salt and pepper
Season beef with salt and pepper and coat with flour.
Heat heavy bottomed pan medium high and add 1/3 of the olive oil.
Add 1/3 of the beef and brown on both sides.
Remove beef. Repeat twice more, until all beef has been browned.
Reduce heat to medium. Add onions and cook until translucent.
Add tomato paste, caraway, and paprika.
Cook for 3 minutes, until tomato begins to caramelize.
Add garlic and cook for 15 seconds.
Add chicken stock and scrape the bottom of the pan.
Add vinegar and citrus zest.
Cover and simmer for 90 minutes, or until beef starts to become tender.
Add squash and cook for 15 minutes.
Serve with boiled potatoes or butter noodles.
Posted by Sheamus Feeley
I walked through the space today with Claire Ducrocq and am finally seeing a restaurant take shape before my eyes.
The bars are being constructed, the kitchen is framed, and my brand new Mugnaini wood-fired oven is in place. Man, am I excited!
For those of you who don’t know, a lot of my food centers around wood-fired cooking. We will have a smoker, wood-fired oven and wood-fired grill at Farmstead, giving a sweet kiss of smoke to our beef, fruits, and vegetables.
Our oven was built in Reggello, a small hillside town in Tuscany. The Valoriani family has been crafting wood-fired ovens since 1890, and are known to make the best in the business.
It is important to know that this oven in particular will not be used as a “pizza oven,” and will be used primarily to roast meats and produce, along with beans and grits from time to time. (However, I may sneak one in for a family meal every once in a while.)
Posted by Sheamus Feeley